3760 head flooring

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3760 head flooring

Postby Kevin3760 » Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:08 pm

I am having a problem with the piece of "tile" that's on the floor of the head in front of the sink. In the last couple of years, water has been getting under that tile piece. I tried to caulk around it, but the joint is large and with the constant pressure from stepping on it, the caulk didn't hold. This year, it started getting loose and then the tile came up completely (the glue holding it down failed from being in contact with water that was seeping underneath). Here's where I've run into more problems. I went to the hardware store and was considering what sort of adhesive to use to hold it down again. I noticed there were some adhesives that work even if exposed to water, but they were all very toxic, and I'd prefer not to have to deal with fumes working in a close space. I chose an adhesive that said it was specially designed to bond materials to shower enclosures. I figured that this would work because the material enclosing the head is similar to a shower enclosure. The adhesive went down OK, and I caulked around the tile again, this time with some backer rod so that the caulk wouldn't break because of the size of the joint. All was excellent for about 4 days of use. The adhesive seemed to hold down the tile great, and the caulk (siliconized acrylic) was holding and keeping water out. I'm now on a 2 week trip and have started having problems. Water started intruding past the caulk in one corner by the shower. Then, as the water comes out (when someone steps on the tile), it oozes liquid adhesive (the adhesive I used obviously didn't cure right or something happens when it contacts water). Because I'm on a trip and can't secure the head for 2 days while I re-do everything, I've resorted to duck taping around the tile to stop the glue from coming back out -- and even that isn't working very well and water keeps getting in. When I get back home and can rip everything up, I want to fix this right once and for all. I'd appreciate any suggestions anyone might have for a solution (a type of adhesive that will work best, etc.). This is a very frustrating problem. Thanks.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby Regalwolf » Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:00 am

Kevin, do you have some pictures of the floor/tile you can post? Did the origninal installation use caulk to seal around the tiles? How are you getting so much water causing the problem; assume the material (wood?) under the tile has been saturated and probably spread beyond just the one tile - right?

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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby JOSEL » Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:37 pm

I don t know exactly what you have but we had a solid piece of synthetic material simulating marble.
(3880 2005) It separated from the floor and eventually was broken. I was going to replace it but I cleaned the floor
all the glue spots ,sanded a little and now I have an adecuate surface, not slippery not perfect, works well.
The pounding when you travel separates a rigid tile or floor from the true floor.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby PLY17410 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:32 pm

Our 2005 3560 has that same fake marble. Same problem, water has gotten underneath, oozes up when stepped on and it STINKS too!

I'm hoping to pry it off, clean it up and re-seat it and caulk the sides. Maybe you got some bad caulk that it did not cure?

Or ... I know from past experience if you used rubbing alcohol or something similar to clean and sanitize the area with, that will prevent some caulks from curing.

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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby Kevin3760 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 7:34 am

Regalwolf: I'm on a trip right now and can't upload pictures to my laptop until I get home. It's a single piece of material (what others have called fake marble). It's a roughly square piece with divisions etched in the top to make it appear like separate pieces of tile. It was not caulked when new. It was simply glued down. The problem is that on my 3760, the piece I'm referring to is right next to the shower enclosure (which doesn't keep all of the water out of the area where this piece sits). Water is constantly getting into the area in front of the sink where the piece sits. Underneath the piece is just the fiberglass deck (or perhaps the enclosure is completely made of some sort of plastic like a shower enclosure you can buy for your home -- I don't know for sure).

Josel: I may end up doing what you did if I can't get this to stay glued down. When I first pulled it up to re-glue it, I noticed that I could just do without the piece altogether. But when you step into the head, you have to step down a lot more without it, which is a little awkward. Travel on the water definitely takes a toll, as does the pressure just from people constantly stepping on it. I was OK for the first two years I had the boat, but when the glue started failing, more and more water started getting under the piece, and the problem got worse and worse.

PLY17410: I don't recommend caulking around it. I've done it three times now, using various techniques, but the constant force from people stepping on it (and from stress from hitting waves, etc.) makes the caulk fail very quickly (as soon as one bit of the caulk separates, water gets in there and the problem continues). (It's amazing how much water can get under the piece -- I now have put duck tape all over the caulked area, and I still am getting water in somehow). When I re-glue it, I'm not going to re-caulk around it. I'm just going to get a good seal with the glue and use a glue that won't fail when it contacts water. I was thinking of using 3M 5200 because it says it will work even below the waterline. If I can't get the glue to work, then I'm giving up and getting rid of the piece completely. It's caused me a lot of aggravation.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby PLY17410 » Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:51 am

Kevin3760,

Are you using caulk (grout) like one would use for ceramic tile? I can see that cracking but not silicon kitchen/bath or other flexible poly caulk (stuff in the tubes).

Maybe a dual mix epoxy might do the trick? I've used West Systems http://www.westsystem.com/ss/six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive/ when installing deck fittings and it cures hard as nails. Comes in a tube and you apply with a traditional caulking gun.

Westmarine carries it.

Upon hearing all the above, I think I'm going to go the epoxy route. Just hope I can get the piece up off the floor without it breaking.

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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby Kevin3760 » Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:13 am

Bob:

I've used several different types of flexible caulk. The problem is that the joint is so large and there's so much flex when people step on the floor, every caulk eventually splits or separates from one side. It can take a while, but it eventually gives. Thanks for the adhesive recommendation -- I'll give that a try.
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Re: 3760 head flooring - Update

Postby Kevin3760 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 4:02 pm

After I posted this originally, and after cleaning up all of the old glue and caulk, I re-glued it with 3M 5200 (which says it can work below the waterline). I didn't caulk around the tile, as this has never worked for me. After several months, the tile is solid and I have no water under it. So far, the 3M 5200 worked to solve this problem.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby PLY17410 » Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:22 am

Kevin,

Thanks for the update. Mine is loose on the right hand side. I've tried putting some pressure hoping I could pull it off, but afraid I might break the piece as the left side is really tight. What did you find under there from the factory? Is it something you think if I got a long knife blade or something under the loose edge I might cut through or is the factory stuff that is on there real strong.

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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby martyknight » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:55 am

I have the same poorly designed floor in my shower (4260). I noticed yesterday at the Annapolis boat show that the new Regals have a teak type wood free-floating floor insert. Looked like you can just take it up and wipe underneath it. I'm going to try and retro mine to something like that. I don't see any caulk being able to stand up to the wear-and-tear.

This seems like a case where they were trying to be decorative but only caused problems--a simple shower floor would've been fine. Marty
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby PLY17410 » Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:06 am

marty,

Be sure to post how you get the piece separated from the floor.

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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby Kevin3760 » Tue Oct 25, 2011 8:40 pm

Bob:

When my floor originally came up -- it was so loose all around, all I had to do was pick it straight up. There was some glue from the factory, but after water got under there time and time again, it just continued to fail. At the end, the glue had no adhesion at all. My advice would be to just wait and I'm sure after some more time and showers, the piece will eventually come up with limited effort. I wouldn't try to force it -- it does seem like it would break.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby martyknight » Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:54 pm

We replaced our tile with simulated teak--it came out great--much nicer than the piece that was there. Take a look, MK
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby KellyRobert » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:01 am

I think would work better for a boat's head floor than the more fixed cover flooring since it is exceptionally malleable and will satisfy with the curved parts directly finished the current floor.
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Re: 3760 head flooring

Postby gofast24 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 11:14 am

martyknight wrote:I have the same poorly designed floor in my shower (4260). I noticed yesterday at the Annapolis boat show that the new Regals have a teak type wood free-floating floor insert. Looked like you can just take it up and wipe underneath it. I'm going to try and retro mine to something like that. I don't see any caulk being able to stand up to the wear-and-tear.

This seems like a case where they were trying to be decorative but only caused problems--a simple shower floor would've been fine. Marty


Not sure if a Free floating floor that you have to pick up and wipe under it is the way to go. That means every time you take a shower you have to pull it out and dry off all the water that may have gotten under it? We are not having a problem with our fwd head floor after 16 years using it for taking showers? Has to be the type of adhesive/glue that was used to originally to put it in? Also, if you just use a 3M marine silicone calk/adhesive to attach the floor and caulk around the edges that should prevent any cracking or water getting under the floor?
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