Outdrive maintenance tips needed

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Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby kthurt » Thu May 10, 2018 6:41 am

My long time mechanic has been replaced by a younger guy that is less experienced. Next week we are pulling the boat for bellows and gimble bearing replacement (SB is noisy) and gear lube change. Current bellows are approx. 6 yrs old. I will clean the 2 yr old bottom paint, change anodes and wax freeboard , but he will perform the rest. Luckily, I will the standing by as the worked is performed. Can you guys give me tips on things I should watch for during his work? The drives are Volvo DPS, year 2000 and in fresh water.
Ken

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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby steve & dot » Thu May 10, 2018 5:16 pm

Not sure if DPS drive is same as our SX but if yours has grease fittings for gimble bearing, he has to install so hole in bearing lines up with the grease fitting. Ours has sealed bearing and no grease fitting. I would replace the seal behind the gimble bearing too for piece of mind. Have him check motor alignment before re-installing the drives. If your drive shaft u-joints have grease fittings, make sure they get greased. And one of the last things, grease up the pivot pins that your trim cylinders mount on.
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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby Chris_in_Texas » Thu May 10, 2018 6:42 pm

Replace the U-Joints as well if you are doing gimble bearings. They aren't that expensive and if they haven't been changed its one of those preventive things. Yes engine alignment is critical as well, and there is a jig for that that they use.
Thanks, Chris

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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby Mischief Managed » Fri May 11, 2018 5:25 am

Chris_in_Texas wrote:Replace the U-Joints as well if you are doing gimble bearings. They aren't that expensive and if they haven't been changed its one of those preventive things. Yes engine alignment is critical as well, and there is a jig for that that they use.


I think genuine VP u-joints are very expensive these days. I've heard they will only sell the whole yoke/cardan joint assembly. One should be able to find a cross-reference to an truck U-joint pretty easily though and save a few hundred bucks.
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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby Chris_in_Texas » Fri May 11, 2018 7:15 pm

Oh yea they changed it over to the entire kit, you can't purchase U-joints any longer from VP. I forgot about that. See 'Bulletin P-44-1-5' (just search online for it). They are about $500 for the kit now, that have non-removable U-joints.
Thanks, Chris

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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby kthurt » Sat May 12, 2018 10:22 am

What about bellows change out.....any tips there? One of my ODs has a periodic drip...drop every 30 seconds to a minute. It has done this for 9 months or so, but never gets worse. Using a mirror, it appears to be coming from the bellows area. Any ideas on why it comes and goes and never worsens.
Is there a way to check the transom for problems/moisture, without a moisture detection device?
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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby Chris_in_Texas » Sat May 12, 2018 10:54 am

Simply pull the drive off and that is how you get to the bellows. Loosen the drive end of both the drive bellows and exhaust bellows. Something to keep in mind if you are leaking water out of the bellows, that would indicate that everything is flooded in the bellows if it is the drive one. That being the case you may need to replace more items. They will start to rust pretty good if there is any water intrusion in them. Bellows "should" be replaced every two years according to VP, and fully checked very year for pin-holes. Do most people do that no, but that is the recommendation from them to prevent any water from getting in that dry area. This is why on the newer ocean-x drives they put water sensors in the bellows now to alert you of any water.
Thanks, Chris

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Re: Outdrive maintenance tips needed

Postby kthurt » Mon May 14, 2018 1:31 pm

They got the SB drive off (one with the noisy gimble). The drive showed no signs of leaks on the inside of the boat, but there was some water in the bellows. The U joint seems tight. The old bearing had plenty of grease in it. He had to pound on pretty hard to get it out, it actually deformed the bearing somewhat, so it's hard to tell the conditon of the bearing. The new bearing had no hole for grease input, even though there is a zert fitting. Mechanic said all the new bearing are sealed....hmmm, hope it's the correct bearing.
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